Moving a washing machine isn’t just “lift and go.” It’s plumbing, electrics, and a 60–90 kg box with a delicate drum inside. Treated well, it’ll arrive ready to wash.
Rushed or handled wrong, you’ll be chasing leaks, error codes, or a wrecked suspension.
Here’s a clear, field-tested, step-by-step you can follow with confidence.
What you’ll need
- 2–3 strong people (minimum 2)
- Appliance dolly (with straps) or lifting straps
- Thick moving blankets + stretch wrap or tape
- Bucket or shallow tray, a few old towels
- Adjustable spanner/wrench, pliers, screwdriver
- Ziplock bags + marker for small parts
- Transit (shipping) bolts for your model (essential for front loaders)
- Ratchet straps for the vehicle
- Spirit level (for reinstalling)
- Optional: anti-vibration pads for the new spot
Before you start: plan the path
- Measure everything. Measure the washer, doorways, lifts, hall turns, and the moving van ramp width.
- Clear the route. Roll up mats, protect door frames, and plan where you’ll set the washer down at the other end.
- Photograph connections. Quick photos of hose positions and how the drain hose is routed will save time later.
Step-by-Step Moving Process
1) Empty, clean, and dry the machine
- Run a quick hot-water or cleaning cycle without clothes inside to rinse out detergent build-up and any leftover residue.
- Leave the door open for a few hours to dry the seal and drum. Wipe the gasket and detergent drawer so they don’t drip in transit.
2) Turn off power and water
- Unplug the machine. Coil and tape the power cord to the back so it can’t snag.
- Close the water isolation taps (hot and/or cold). If you don’t have an isolation tap, shut off the main water supply before disconnecting.
3) Release water pressure and drain hoses
- Place a bucket under the connections. Loose each inlet hose at the tap end first to release pressure.
- Disconnect the hoses from the machine ends next. Let water drain into your bucket; use towels for drips.
4) Drain the internal sump/pump
- Most front loaders keep a surprising amount of water in the pump area.
- Locate the pump filter access (usually a small flap at the bottom front).
- Place a shallow tray and towels underneath.
- Open the small emergency drain tube (if present) and drain slowly, then unscrew the filter cap to release remaining water. Clean debris while you’re there.
- Refit the filter securely when done.
5) Cap, bag, and label
- Keep rubber washers from the hoses safe.
- Put all screws, hose washers, and small parts in a ziplock bag. Label it “Washer fittings” and tape it to the machine’s back.
6) Secure the drum (critical)
- Install the transit (shipping) bolts that came with your machine (or order replacements for your exact model). They lock the drum/suspension so it can’t bounce and snap springs in transit.
- If you truly cannot source transit bolts, pad the drum by stuffing dense foam between the drum and cabinet (last resort). Transit bolts are strongly recommended—especially for front loaders.
- Close and tape the door shut. Tape the detergent drawer so it can’t slide out.
7) Wrap the machine
- Drape moving blankets over all sides, paying extra attention to the front panel corners.
- Use stretch wrap or tape around the body to keep blankets tight (don’t tape directly on paint if you can avoid it).
8) Lift safely onto a dolly
- Tilt the washer slightly from the side, slide the dolly plate under the base, and strap it snugly to the dolly.
- Keep the machine upright. Front loaders especially should not be laid on their side or back if you can avoid it (oil can migrate and the suspension can be stressed).
9) Navigate doors, halls, and stairs
- Spotter calls the moves. One person leads, one supports.
- When moving downstairs, take it slowly, tackling one step at a time while keeping the dolly steady and upright.
- Go slow. Pauses are fine; rushed lifts cause dents and strained backs.
10) Load into the vehicle
- Use a ramp where possible. Keep the washer upright as you roll in.
- Position it against a wall of the van with the door side facing inward for protection.
- Ratchet strap it firmly to anchor points at mid-height. No heavy items stacked on top.
- Avoid extreme heat or rain exposure when loading/unloading (blankets help).
11) Unload and position at the new place
- Roll the washer to its final spot before unwrapping, keeping it upright.
- Remove wrap and blankets. Do not remove transit bolts yet—wait until it’s in its final position.
Reinstalling the Washing Machine
12) Level the cabinet
- Position the washing machine exactly where you want it to stay, ensuring there’s enough clearance behind for hoses and connections.
- Use a level tool on top of the machine—check both front-to-back and side-to-side—to make sure it sits evenly.
- Twist the levelling feet to get it perfectly level. A level washer is quieter, cleaner on the bearings, and less likely to “walk.”
13) Reconnect hoses and drain
- Check that rubber washers are seated in the hose ends.
- Thread the cold (and hot, if used) hoses by hand to avoid cross-threading, then snug with a wrench (firm, not over-tight).
- Route the drain hose to the standpipe or sink at the manufacturer’s recommended height to avoid siphoning or backflow.
- Open the taps slowly and check for leaks at both ends.
14) Remove transit bolts (don’t skip)
- Once the washer is in place and hooked up, carefully take out the shipping bolts and keep them safe in a labelled bag. Leaving them in place during use can damage the drum and suspension system.
15) Test run
- Plug in and run a short cycle or rinse/spin to confirm:
- No leaks at taps, hose ends, or the pump access.
- The machine doesn’t rock or walk.
- No unusual knocking (double-check bolts are out if it sounds “locked”).
DIY vs. Hiring Professional Removalists – Which Is Better?
You absolutely can move a washing machine yourself. With the right tools, enough hands, and careful planning, DIY can save money and give you full control.
But here’s the reality: removalists are built for this job. They have the appliance dollies, stair straps, padding, and most importantly—the experience of moving heavy machines daily. That means less risk of injury, less chance of damaging floors or fittings, and peace of mind that your washer arrives safe and ready to run.
Both approaches are valid, but if you value time, safety, and a stress-free move, hiring professional removalists is usually the smarter investment.
Final Thoughts
Shifting a washing machine takes more than muscle—it requires the right technique. From draining every drop of water to securing the drum with transit bolts, every step protects your appliance and makes setup in your new home hassle-free.
Whether you choose the DIY route or call-in professional removalists, the key is preparation and patience. Do it right, and your washer will be ready to serve you for years to come—without leaks, jolts, or costly repairs.
FAQ
Do I really need transit bolts?
Yes—especially for front loaders. They keep the drum and suspension from slamming around. Ignoring this step can quickly lead to serious damage during transport.
Can I move a washer by myself?
Not safely. Always have two people minimum and the correct moving trolley to handle the job safely. Hiring removalists is the best choice. Your back (and your walls) will thank you.
How long before I can wash after moving?
As soon as it’s connected, level, and the transit bolts are out. Run a quick rinse/spin test first to check for leaks or noises.
What if I don’t have an appliance dolly?
Borrow or hire one. If that’s impossible, use lifting straps and lots of padding, and keep the machine upright at all times. Expect the process to be slower and riskier.
Can I reuse old hoses?
If they’re in good condition with intact rubber washers, yes. If they’re cracked, swollen, or kinked, replace them now to prevent leaks.
